This has resulted in a great deal of travelling, and placements in many far-flung places including France, Australia, Germany, and Argentina, as well as my native New Zealand. When I was approached about this project I wasn't sure I could even locate Hungary on a map, which in itself was almost challenge enough to take on the job.

When I discovered that the winery was in Tokaj, producing not their well know sweet wines but a new style of fruity dry wine for the last remaining State owned winery in Hungary I was completely hooked. Although challenge suddenly didn't seem quite big enough as a word to describe my feelings.

What greeted me upon arrival was one of the most beautiful countries I have found myself in to date. Although armed with a phrase book, I quickly discovered that Hungarian is one of the more difficult languages on the planet. Thankfully this problem was overcome by the superlative language skills and tolerance of the assistant winemaker, whose job suddenly expanded to include the role of translator.

Tokaj is traditionally one of the last wine regions to be harvested in Europe - but not this year. After barely a week to become acquainted with the (for me new) varieties of Furmint and Harslevelu we launched straight into vintage - over 3 weeks earlier than normal. This surprisingly early vintage, caught us slightly underprepared and without some of our lovely new 50,000L tanks.

The weather at this point was absolutely gorgeous, and continued to be so for a further 8 weeks, undoubtedly creating the vintage of the century (for both the dry wines and also the famous Tokaji Aszu wines). The fermentations proceeded at an unhurried pace and the wines began expressing their now familiar flavours of citrus - lime and grapefruit, orange blossoms, and underlying herbal notes.

Currently the wines (Furmint and Harslevelu) are stabilising naturally and will be ready for bottling in February. I have now departed for warmer climes in anticipation of an Australian vintage. But given the opportunity would go back tomorrow, to this beautiful land, its welcoming people, and their little known but gorgeous wines.

 Tania is now working in Australia and Crown Estates very much hope Tania will be back in the autumn of 2001 to supervise the vintage, working with the enthusiastic winemaking team she has left behind in Tokaj.