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THE TOKAJ-HEGYALJA REGION |
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| Hungary is a land-locked country at the geographic heart of Europe, boasting
Europe's largest lake, Lake Balaton and dissected north to south
by the mighty River Danube.
Tokaji Wine with its unique and much prized characteristics, can
only be grown in the Tokaj-Hegyalja region (some 3 hours drive
east from Hungarys capital Budapest located in the north-east,
on the border with Slovakia and the Ukraine. This is the northern
limit of viticultural production at 45-50 latitude. |
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| Historical Roots
Vines, believed to be indigenous to the region, were first cultivated
in Tokaj during Roman times. Hungary was invaded by the Mongols
in 1241. The cellars which are such a feature of the region were
built during this turbulent period.
The Ottoman Turks conquered much of what is now Hungary during
the 16th Century. The well-defended Tokaj Region was never fully occupied
but subject to raids and the threat of invasion throughout this
period. Legend has it that at some stage during this time, the
Tokaj vineyards were left un-harvested due to the Turkish threat.
When the populous returned the grapes had shrivelled and the concentration
of sugar and acidity was remarked upon, so the world's first noble
late harvest dessert wine was made.
However, the actual techniques for Tokaji Aszú production were
not developed until the 1630's. The wines for which the region
is famous result from skilful application of winemaking techniques
developed in Tokaj nearly 400 years ago and passed from generation
to generation, despite the trauma of wars, famine and political
change.
The name Aszú means desiccated in Hungarian - Europes most complex
language. The actual vinification process for Aszú wines was first
developed by Abbot Szepsi Laczkó Máté (1576-1633) in 1631, for
Zsuzsanna Lórántffy, who was the consort to Prince György Rákóczi
I (Prince of Transylvania from 1630 to 1648).
The oldest bottle of true 'Aszú' wine held in Crown Estates unique
Museum Cellars dates back to the 1680's. The Tokaj-Hegyalja region was amongst
the first vineyard areas in the world to be subject to formal
regulation in 1641. Hungary was liberated from the Turks in 1686,
with assistance from the Austrian Habsburgs.
The Transilvanian patriot and defender of the region, Prince Ferenc
Rákóczi II, (1676 -1735) recognised the unique quality of Aszú
wine and used the proceeds from Tokaji wine sales to finance his
freedom fights. After his final defeat in 1715, by Imperial decree,
the Rákóczi familys Szarvas vineyard became Hungarian Crown property. |
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Key Dates In The Development of the Tokaji Region and Crown Estates
290 Vines, believed to be indigenous, first cultivated in Tokaj during
the era of Roman Emperor Probus.
895 Hungarians (the Magyar Tribes) arrive and settle in the Carpathian
Basin.
1551 Pope Julius III, at a dinner during the Council of Trent, tasted
a wine from Tokaj and commented Such a wine suits the Popes
table.
1631 The Tokaji Aszú winemaking process was first described by Abbot
Szepsi Laczkó Máté.
1641 First regulation of wine production and manual selection of botrytised
Aszú berries. Date of oldest know Tokaji, purchased by Len Evans
OBE, from Christie's, and shared with James Halliday at a single
bottle club dinner in the 1970s.
1680s The oldest bottle of Tokaji Aszú in Crown Estates Museum Cellar
presented to the Hungarian Government by Lord Chedwick in 1983.
1686 Hungary liberated from the Turks - the fame of Tokaj wines grew
to such an extent that Russian Emperors stationed a garrison to
protect the 'wine with the price and colour of gold'.
1690s Louis X1V, of France (1643 - 1715) credited with naming the amber
nectar, or 'liquid gold' as it is known locally, as 'The King
of wines and wine of Kings'.
1705 The Castle near town of Tokaj (Castle Island) destroyed to stop
it falling into Habsburg hands.
1711 Prince Ferenc Rákóczi II, leader of the resistance to the Habsburg
(Austrian) domination of Hungary, finally defeated and his lands
appropriated.
1715 The Szarvas Vineyard became part of the Royal Estate.
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| Habsburg Expansion
Detailed classification of vineyards occurred in 1737, after the
Habsburgs had exerted their supremacy. At this time, the Szarvas
Estate (now owned by Crown Estates) was granted exceptional First
Great Growth classification, which it retains to this day.
In 1741 Szarvas became part of the Hungarian estate of Archduchess
Maria Theresa, the only female Habsburg monarch, on her coronation
as Queen of Hungary. She was presented with the Golden Deer casket
(Szarvas means deer and the deer has an Aszú berry in its mouth)
now exhibited in the Hungarian National Museum in Budapest.
By the late 18th Century the fame of the region had spread and Tokaji Aszú wines
had become highly prized throughout Europe. Russian Tsars stationed
a garrison there to protect the ' wine the price and colour of
gold'. Louis XIV of France is credited with naming the 'liquid
gold' as it was known locally, as the 'King of wines, wine of
Kings'.
Austro-Hungarian Emperor Franz Joseph sent a gift of Tokaji to
Queen Victoria for each birthday. Consisting of a dozen bottles
for each year, in 1900 on her penultimate and 81st Birthday she received 972 bottles. History does not relate how
many bottles survived.
In 2000, to celebrate the 100th Birthday of the British Queen Mother, the Hungarian Government
and Crown Estates of Hungary sent a gift of a rare bottle of 1900
Aszú wine, from the collection of antique wines held in their
Museum Cellar. |
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1737 Tokaj wine growing area designated by Royal Decree. The Szarvas
Vineyard classified as one of only two Great First Growth sites.
1741 Maria Theresa of Austria crowned Queen of Hungary. The Szarvas
Vineyard became part of her Estate and she was presented with
the Golden Deer casket (Szarvas means deer), now exhibited in
the National Museum.
1770s The vineyard classification system formalised in Tokaj-Hegyalja
with the regions winemaking regulations.
1880s Phylloxera strikes and wipes out the vineyards and the prosperity
of Tokaji.
Vineyards replanted with the Furmint, Hárslevelű and Yellow Muscat grapes -the best varieties for producing Aszú
berries.
1900 Date of the rare Museum Aszú wine, presented by the Hungarian
Government and Crown Estates of Hungary to the British Queen Mother
to mark her 100th Birthday.
1906 Oldest wine stocked in commercial quantities in the Crown Estates
Museum Collection (the Collection includes more limited stocks from the 19th century)
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| Isolation and Rebirth
In 1918 when the Austro-Hungarian Dual Monarchy collapsed, Hungary
became a Republic and Habsburg lands reverted to the state. The
aftermath of the 2nd World War (Hungary was invaded by the Germans
in 1944 and the Russians in 1945) was even more traumatic, as
Communists took over and Hungary became increasingly isolated
from the rest of Europe.
Throughout this period excellent wines continued to be produced
by the Wine Combinat and the family estates were kept intact.
Some of the best wines of the Century were produced in years like
1947, 1956, 1957, 1972 (the vintage of the Century), which are
now preserved in the unique Museum Cellar. The Royal Szarvas vineyard which was taken into State ownership in 1918 also was maintained
as the finest site in the region throughout this period.
Crown Estates of Hungary, now owns and markets wines from Szarvas and the Museum Cellar and the company is once
more putting these outstanding wines from this remote and magical
region of Hungary back on the map, for the enjoyment of wine lovers
around the world. |
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1918 Collapse of the Habsburg (Austro-Hungarian) Monarchy.The Tokaj
State Farm and Winery was established and underwent several reorganisations
in the following 20 years. Formation of Tokaj-Hegyalja State Wine
Combinat, responsible for Tokajs wine production, viticulture,
research and wine trade
1972 The vintage of the century in the Tokaj region.
1989 End of Communism and opening-up of the Tokaj region to the West.
1992 Partial privatisation of the Wine Combinat completed. Significant
investment by several foreign companies in the region, taking
on former Estates.
1993 Hungarian State sets up Tokaj Kereskedőház Rt, now called Crown Estates of Hungary, which owns the regions
prime assets, including the Museum Cellar and Szarvas vineyard.
This year was the best vintage during the 25 years prior to 1999.
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| TOPOGRAPHY
The Tokaj-Hegyalja region is located among the Zemplén hills (the
most visible is the Tokaj Mountain, overlooking the town of Tokaj),
rising out of the Great Hungarian Plain. Essential moisture for
development of botrytis (noble rot) is generated by the Bodrog
river, as it meanders across the plain. Vineyards are situated
on the southern, south-eastern and south-western slopes and absorb
the all important late Autumn sun.
The brown forest soils, formed on volcanic ash, produce wines
with high acid and extract which mature slowly and thus can be
kept without deterioration for many years. Vineyards at 150-200m
above sea level produce the best wine (above 120m the frequency
of early autumn and winter frosts is less than on the lower slopes).
The 6000 hectare Tokaj-Hegyalja region covers a total of 28 towns and villages (as defined in the 1980
Wine Act)
Only wines grown in the vineyards that surround these settlements
under strict conditions laid down in legislation can carry the
Tokaji name.
The local microclimate is essential for the production of raisin-like
Aszú grapes (also called Aszú berries). The best sites are the
most susceptible to the onset of botrytis or 'noble rot'. The
Tokaj-Hegyalja has the latest harvest in Hungary, starting in
mid October - completed by mid November with the delayed harvest
of the Aszú berries.
Historically a range of vines were grown in the region but phyloxera
led to dominance of three varieties: Furmint (70% of area), Hárslevelű (meaning Lime Leaf - 25%) and Muscat Lunel (5%). The two main
varieties define the character of Tokaji wine but: Furmint yields
a higher proportion of Aszú berries than the fuller bodied Hárslevelű. |
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| [click the map to enlarge]
The 6000 hectare Tokaj-Hegyalja region covers a total of 28 towns
and villages
Villages in bold contain key Crown Estates Assets |
| Abaújszántó |
| Bekecs |
| Bodrogkeresztúr |
| Bodrogolaszi |
| Bodrogszegi |
| Erdőbénye |
| Erdőhorváti |
| Golop |
| Hercegkút |
| Károlyfalva |
| Legyesbény |
| Makkoshotyka |
| Mád |
| Mezőzombor |
| Monok |
| Olaszliszka |
| Ond, Rátka |
| Sárazsadány |
| Sárospatak |
| Sátoraljaújhely |
| Szegilong |
| Szerencs |
| Tarcal |
| Tállya |
| Tolcsva |
| Tokaj |
| Vámosújfalu |
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