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Tokaji Wine Styles

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© 2001 Crown Estates

THE TOKAJ-HEGYALJA REGION
Hungary is a land-locked country at the geographic heart of Europe, boasting Europe's largest lake, Lake Balaton and dissected north to south by the mighty River Danube.

Tokaji Wine with its unique and much prized characteristics, can only be grown in the Tokaj-Hegyalja region (some 3 hours drive east from Hungary’s capital Budapest located in the north-east, on the border with Slovakia and the Ukraine. This is the northern limit of viticultural production at 45-50 latitude.

 
Historical Roots

Vines, believed to be indigenous to the region, were first cultivated in Tokaj during Roman times. Hungary was invaded by the Mongols in 1241. The cellars which are such a feature of the region were built during this turbulent period.

The Ottoman Turks conquered much of what is now Hungary during the 16th Century. The well-defended Tokaj Region was never fully occupied but subject to raids and the threat of invasion throughout this period. Legend has it that at some stage during this time, the Tokaj vineyards were left un-harvested due to the Turkish threat. When the populous returned the grapes had shrivelled and the concentration of sugar and acidity was remarked upon, so the world's first noble late harvest dessert wine was made.

However, the actual techniques for Tokaji Aszú production were not developed until the 1630's. The wines for which the region is famous result from skilful application of winemaking techniques developed in Tokaj nearly 400 years ago and passed from generation to generation, despite the trauma of wars, famine and political change.

The name Aszú means desiccated in Hungarian - Europe’s most complex language. The actual vinification process for Aszú wines was first developed by Abbot Szepsi Laczkó Máté (1576-1633) in 1631, for Zsuzsanna Lórántffy, who was the consort to Prince György Rákóczi I (Prince of Transylvania from 1630 to 1648).

The oldest bottle of true 'Aszú' wine held in Crown Estates unique Museum Cellars dates back to the 1680's. The Tokaj-Hegyalja region was amongst the first vineyard areas in the world to be subject to formal regulation in 1641. Hungary was liberated from the Turks in 1686, with assistance from the Austrian Habsburgs.

The Transilvanian patriot and defender of the region, Prince Ferenc Rákóczi II, (1676 -1735) recognised the unique quality of Aszú wine and used the proceeds from Tokaji wine sales to finance his freedom fights. After his final defeat in 1715, by Imperial decree, the Rákóczi family’s Szarvas vineyard became Hungarian Crown property.

Key Dates In The Development of the Tokaji Region and Crown Estates

290 Vines, believed to be indigenous, first cultivated in Tokaj during the era of Roman Emperor Probus.

895 Hungarians (the Magyar Tribes) arrive and settle in the Carpathian Basin.

1551 Pope Julius III, at a dinner during the Council of Trent, tasted a wine from Tokaj and commented ‘Such a wine suits the Pope’s table’.

1631 The Tokaji Aszú winemaking process was first described by Abbot Szepsi Laczkó Máté.

1641 First regulation of wine production and manual selection of botrytised Aszú berries. Date of oldest know Tokaji, purchased by Len Evans OBE, from Christie's, and shared with James Halliday at a single bottle club dinner in the 1970s.

1680s The oldest bottle of Tokaji Aszú in Crown Estates’ Museum Cellar presented to the Hungarian Government by Lord Chedwick in 1983.

1686 Hungary liberated from the Turks - the fame of Tokaj wines grew to such an extent that Russian Emperors stationed a garrison to protect the 'wine with the price and colour of gold'.

1690s Louis X1V, of France (1643 - 1715) credited with naming the amber nectar, or 'liquid gold' as it is known locally, as 'The King of wines and wine of Kings'.

1705 The Castle near town of Tokaj (Castle Island) destroyed to stop it falling into Habsburg hands.

1711 Prince Ferenc Rákóczi II, leader of the resistance to the Habsburg (Austrian) domination of Hungary, finally defeated and his lands appropriated.

1715 The Szarvas Vineyard became part of the Royal Estate.

 
 
Habsburg Expansion

Detailed classification of vineyards occurred in 1737, after the Habsburgs had exerted their supremacy. At this time, the Szarvas Estate (now owned by Crown Estates) was granted exceptional ‘First Great Growth’ classification, which it retains to this day.

In 1741 Szarvas became part of the Hungarian estate of Archduchess Maria Theresa, the only female Habsburg monarch, on her coronation as Queen of Hungary. She was presented with the Golden Deer casket (Szarvas means deer and the deer has an Aszú berry in its mouth) now exhibited in the Hungarian National Museum in Budapest.

By the late 18th Century the fame of the region had spread and Tokaji Aszú wines had become highly prized throughout Europe. Russian Tsars stationed a garrison there to protect the ' wine the price and colour of gold'. Louis XIV of France is credited with naming the 'liquid gold' as it was known locally, as the 'King of wines, wine of Kings'.

Austro-Hungarian Emperor Franz Joseph sent a gift of Tokaji to Queen Victoria for each birthday. Consisting of a dozen bottles for each year, in 1900 on her penultimate and 81st Birthday she received 972 bottles. History does not relate how many bottles survived.

In 2000, to celebrate the 100th Birthday of the British Queen Mother, the Hungarian Government and Crown Estates of Hungary sent a gift of a rare bottle of 1900 Aszú wine, from the collection of antique wines held in their Museum Cellar.

1737 Tokaj wine growing area designated by Royal Decree. The Szarvas Vineyard classified as one of only two ‘Great First Growth’ sites.

1741 Maria Theresa of Austria crowned Queen of Hungary. The Szarvas Vineyard became part of her Estate and she was presented with the Golden Deer casket (Szarvas means deer), now exhibited in the National Museum.

1770s The vineyard classification system formalised in Tokaj-Hegyalja with the region’s winemaking regulations.

1880s Phylloxera strikes and wipes out the vineyards and the prosperity of Tokaji.

Vineyards replanted with the Furmint, Hárslevelű and Yellow Muscat grapes -the best varieties for producing Aszú berries.

1900 Date of the rare Museum Aszú wine, presented by the Hungarian Government and Crown Estates of Hungary to the British Queen Mother to mark her 100th Birthday.

1906 Oldest wine stocked in commercial quantities in the Crown Estates Museum Collection (the Collection includes more limited stocks from the 19th century)

 
Isolation and Rebirth

In 1918 when the Austro-Hungarian Dual Monarchy collapsed, Hungary became a Republic and Habsburg lands reverted to the state. The aftermath of the 2nd World War (Hungary was invaded by the Germans in 1944 and the Russians in 1945) was even more traumatic, as Communists took over and Hungary became increasingly isolated from the rest of Europe.

Throughout this period excellent wines continued to be produced by the Wine Combinat and the family estates were kept intact. Some of the best wines of the Century were produced in years like 1947, 1956, 1957, 1972 (the vintage of the Century), which are now preserved in the unique Museum Cellar. The Royal Szarvas vineyard which was taken into State ownership in 1918 also was maintained as the finest site in the region throughout this period.

Crown Estates of Hungary, now owns and markets wines from Szarvas and the Museum Cellar and the company is once more putting these outstanding wines from this remote and magical region of Hungary back on the map, for the enjoyment of wine lovers around the world.

1918 Collapse of the Habsburg (Austro-Hungarian) Monarchy.The Tokaj State Farm and Winery was established and underwent several reorganisations in the following 20 years. Formation of Tokaj-Hegyalja State Wine Combinat, responsible for Tokaj’s wine production, viticulture, research and wine trade

1972 The vintage of the century in the Tokaj region.

1989 End of Communism and opening-up of the Tokaj region to the West.

1992 Partial privatisation of the Wine Combinat completed. Significant investment by several foreign companies in the region, taking on former Estates.

1993 Hungarian State sets up Tokaj Kereskedőház Rt, now called Crown Estates of Hungary, which owns the region’s prime assets, including the Museum Cellar and Szarvas vineyard. This year was the best vintage during the 25 years prior to 1999.

 
TOPOGRAPHY

The Tokaj-Hegyalja region is located among the Zemplén hills (the most visible is the Tokaj Mountain, overlooking the town of Tokaj), rising out of the Great Hungarian Plain. Essential moisture for development of botrytis (noble rot) is generated by the Bodrog river, as it meanders across the plain. Vineyards are situated on the southern, south-eastern and south-western slopes and absorb the all important late Autumn sun.

The brown forest soils, formed on volcanic ash, produce wines with high acid and extract which mature slowly and thus can be kept without deterioration for many years. Vineyards at 150-200m above sea level produce the best wine (above 120m the frequency of early autumn and winter frosts is less than on the lower slopes).

The 6000 hectare Tokaj-Hegyalja region covers a total of 28 towns and villages (as defined in the 1980 Wine Act)

Only wines grown in the vineyards that surround these settlements under strict conditions laid down in legislation can carry the Tokaji name.

The local microclimate is essential for the production of raisin-like Aszú grapes (also called Aszú berries). The best sites are the most susceptible to the onset of botrytis or 'noble rot'. The Tokaj-Hegyalja has the latest harvest in Hungary, starting in mid October - completed by mid November with the delayed harvest of the Aszú berries.

Historically a range of vines were grown in the region but phyloxera led to dominance of three varieties: Furmint (70% of area), Hárslevelű (meaning Lime Leaf - 25%) and Muscat Lunel (5%). The two main varieties define the character of Tokaji wine but: Furmint yields a higher proportion of Aszú berries than the fuller bodied Hárslevelű.

[click the map to enlarge]

The 6000 hectare Tokaj-Hegyalja region covers a total of 28 towns and villages

Villages in bold contain key Crown Estates Assets

Abaújszántó
Bekecs
Bodrogkeresztúr
Bodrogolaszi
Bodrogszegi
Erdőbénye
Erdőhorváti
Golop
Hercegkút
Károlyfalva
Legyesbény
Makkoshotyka
Mád
Mezőzombor
Monok
Olaszliszka
Ond, Rátka
Sárazsadány
Sárospatak
Sátoraljaújhely
Szegilong
Szerencs
Tarcal
Tállya
Tolcsva
Tokaj
Vámosújfalu