The region lies on the edge of the great Hungarian plain (itself a dramatic landscape rich in wildlife), dominated by the extinct Tokaj volcano and the Zemplen Hills. On the southern slopes, vines planted in volcanic soil produce the distinctive Aszú grapes. Tokaji Aszú wine is matured in ancient hillside cellars.

Production of wine has been the region’s economic mainstay for generations, despite the vagaries of war, famine, revolution and disease. The region is also characterised by ancient castles, mountain walks, wild game and hot summers. It is the misty but warm autumn days that cause botrytis to proliferate on the grapes, a trick of nature that has provided wealth and fame to this eponymous wine region.

In vineyards and villages that nestle among these hills, the way of life has continued almost unchanged for centuries. There is still the occasional glimpse of horse drawn carts transporting wine casks or other products. The traditional, single storey houses, with side porches are set at right angles to the road. Exploring these villages is to see the very best of rural Hungary.

Despite the fame of its wine, the region is relatively unknown. The food in local restaurants is far removed from the sparse ‘nouvelle cuisine’ of Western Europe and goes well with the wines produced by Crown Estates or from other local vineyards. The local taste is for a more oxidised style of wine but it is now much easier to find the more fruity dry wines produced for export markets. \

The Tokaj region is primarily a summer destination, between April and October when the grape harvest starts. Visitors should seek out the Crown Estates locations marked on the map. The leading Hungarian owned producer in Tokaj-Hegyalja, Crown Estates is also the custodian of the region’s heritage.

The Szegi Winery
Set on a roadside location in the heart of the region (on the main 37 road) this is the main vinification site for Crown Estates. The 4 km of cellars are unique with the vaulted, cathedral like quarry areas and long tunnels full of maturing wines. With tasting rooms and a shop at Szegi, tourism activity is integrated with the commercial operations. The ideal place to get a glimpse of how wine is aged in Tokaj.

Ungvar Cellars – Sátoraljaújhely
The Ungvár Cellars are used for ageing Tokaji Aszú wines and, due to the dynamism of the current cellar master, have the most visitors of all the TTH cellars. Built in the C13th to protect wines from marauding Tartars, they have been used since the C16th to age Aszú wine. Located at the eastern end of the town, there is also a small shop.

Tarcal Manor House and Szarvas Cellars
The C17th Manor House is an attractive building with unique C13th cellars, where the Szarvas wines are aged. It is located on the edge of this unspoilt village, at the start of the road leading to the summit of the Tokaj mountain. The mansion is awaiting restoration but houses a shop where Szarvas and rare Museum wines can be bought.

The Szarvas Vineyard
The Szarvas vineyard is the finest vineyard in the region. A new visitors centre is planned but has not yet been built.

Tokaj town house
This old house, which is due to be renovated, is in a prime location next to the Museum (well worth a visit) close to the central square in the town of Tokaj. A shop nearby sells Crown Estates wines, many of which are also available at the nearby Toldi Restaurant.

Tolcsva - Museum Cellars
The Museum Cellars are far and away the most interesting and historic of the cellars, with wines dating back over100 years. However, visits are kept to a minimum to avoid disturbing the wine.

Tolcsva - Rákóczi House
A old manor house of atmosphere and character in a central location near the Museum Cellars. Used as the company guest house, it also contains a small Museum on Tokaj.

Coopers’ Workshop – Sárospatak
In this working coopers yard, wine casks are still made and repaired in the same way as they have been for centuries. Located near the railway line on the way into town, currently it is not open yet but casual visitors should ask whether they can look round.

Also the town of Sárospatak, the most historic town of the region is well worth a visit, particularly the Library at Sárospatak College and The Rákóczi Castle [picture]. Also the Var (castle) Restaurant on the other side of the river from the Castle serves wines from Crown Estates with excellent local food. Other castles dotted the region as part of the defences of the region against the Turks. Some are being restored but most are in ruins or without their former contents.

During working hours (8am – 4pm) it is possible to visit the Crown Estates cellars at Tarcal (Szarvas), Szegi and Ungvar, to taste and buy the wines.

It is also possible to buy Crown Estates wines in restaurants and shops in Budapest and starting in 2001 it should be possible to taste Crown Estates wines in some leading hotels. Also wines from Tokaj can be tasted at the House of Hungarian wine on Castle Hill near to the Matthias Church.

For western visitors, Hungary offers superb value for money. The costs of hotels, food and wine are extremely reasonable. Any visitor to Hungary should try the unique and distinctive Tokaji wines, which are a unique part of the nation’s heritage.

Potential visitors requiring information on Crown Estates should contact the company direct on 00 36 47 322 133 and ask for Janos Hollar (fax 00 36 47 321 603). Their E mail address is tokajwin@mail.matav.hu .

For further information on transport, accommodation and the region itself, the number of the regional tourist office for the Tokaj region is 00 36 47 352 259 and their E mail address is tokaj@tourinform.hu .