The prized Tokaji Wine can only be produced in the 6000 hectare Tokaji-Hegyalja (3 hours drive north-west of Budapest ) at the northern limit of viticultural production. Crown Estates of Hungary, are the custodians of the region’s heritage, which dates back to the Abbot Szepsi Lackó Máté, the Reformed Church pastor who is credited with inventing Tokaji Aszú in 1631.

Fine Tokaji Aszú wines became greatly prized in Hungary and throughout Europe. Louis XIV of France (1643 - 1715) is credited with naming them 'King of wines and wine of Kings'. The oldest bottle of true Aszú wine held in Crown Estates’ Museum Cellars dates back to the 1680's.

In 1737 the vineyards were individually classified, according to location, soil and grape quality, as 1^st, 2^nd and 3^rd Growth. The two best vineyards, Mézes Mály and Szarvas (owned by Crown Estates) gained the exceptional ‘First Great Growth’ classification, which both have retained to this day as the finest sites in the region.

Under communism, the great Estates remained intact, initially managed by the State Winery set up in 1948. In 1971, following various reorganisation, the Tokaj-Hegyalja State Wine Combinat was set up (1972 was the vintage of the last century).

When democracy returned to Hungary, in 1989, the region opened up for the first time in 40 years. Despite the partial privatisation between 1989 and 1992, Crown Estates’ predecessor, Tokaj Kereskedőház Rt. retained the majority of the wine stocks and the main cellars.

Crown Estates’ Tokaji Aszú wines are the result of skilful application of winemaking techniques, which have been passed from generation to generation, despite the trauma of wars, famine and political change.

Hugh Johnson, who has invested in the region said in the December 1998 edition of Decanter, "Outside investors might be experimenting but they only have to look to the locals, the keepers of the near mythical original recipes for the answers. Even if you are managing the Hungarians you need their advice at every stage, different parts of the cellar have different effects on the barrel. It is not just applied science…. None of the foreigners who are there understand how Tokaj is made… I'm not kidding the Hungarians aren't about to tell you the recipe."

Since 1631, traditions of processing and vinification of Tokaji wines have developed to a level of sophistication that has remained almost unchanged for many years. The vineyards were fully categorised according to the quality of wine they produced in 1737, the second wine region (after the Duoro in 1705) to undertake this task. Only wines produced and matured in the region can carry the Tokaji name.

The unique Aszú characteristics cannot be copied because specific local conditions: the volcanic soil, the cellar mould (Cladosprium cellare) and climate, all contribute to the process. The hand picking of individual Aszú grapes, vinification and maturation in wooden casks in the Tokaji cellars are also part of a unique system, which ensures the distinctive quality of the wines.

The Zemplen Hills, with their volcanic soils, rise out of the great Hungarian plain. Vines are situated on southern, south-eastern or south-western slopes, where essential moisture evaporating from the Bodrog river in the late autumn, after the hot summer months, stimulate the onset of ‘Botrytis Cinerea’ producing raisin-like Aszú grapes.

The Tokaji-Hegyalja has the latest harvest in Hungary: starting in mid-October and complete by mid November. The two main varieties, Furmint (70% of the area) and Hárslevelű (meaning Lime Leaf - 25%), define the character of Tokaji wine. Furmint, with its higher acidity, is a late ripening variety with tightly packed grapes, producing a higher proportion of Aszú grapes than the fuller bodied Harslevelu.

At the end of October, when the raisin-like Aszú grapes are at their optimum, they are hand-picked grape by grape and placed in ‘puttony’ (the wooden tubs are traditionally carried on the back of the pickers). It will take an individual picker about two days to harvest the 20-25 kilos required to fill a single puttony.

In November and December, 3, 4 or 5 (occasionally 6) puttony of Aszú-paste is added to one Gönci cask (136 litres) of good quality new dry wine, mixed and soaked for 24-48 hours, in order to extract the natural sugar content and flavours. The wine is then drawn off to ferment for a second time. The fermentation takes time because of the high sugar content and the low temperature of the cellars.

Cellars (many of which date from the 13^th Century) are crucial to the maturation of Aszú wine. Long aisles providing a constant temperature, ideal humidity and good draught free ventilation. Ranking among and within cellars is determined by many factors but it is the skill of cellar management, passed from generation to generation, which ensures that the wine is kept in optimum conditions for its maturation.